Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Tim Kirker


Bistrot Zinc is classic bistro in just about every sense of the word: menu, atmosphere, consistently good food, comfort, very French wine list. The only thing missing are old cranky French waiters that might sniff at a stupid question or two. Indeed, the menu at Bistrot Zinc (the "Zinc" part of the name has to do with the handsome zinc bar that commands a good portion of the south side of the dining room) flies the French culinary flag from start to finish. Escargots, assiette de charcuterie, poulet, steak au poivre, steak frites, foie de veau, profiteroles ... Even the menu specials were doing a respectable cuisine Francaise by offering brandade, bouillabaisse and grilled poussin, among others. Is there any dish more French than escargots? I say not. Served in a traditional six-hole escargot plate, the snails all dressed up in an herbed-up garlic butter with a hint of Pernod for good measure, were tender and delicious. A glass of Riesling Reserve from the Alsace was the perfect pairing. The brandade of cod I ordered from the specials list wasn't up to the standard I set for this dish. It needed a touch of olive oil and a bit more garlic to round it out. Having said that, I ate the whole thing, slathering it across the slices of toasted bread that came with it. Assiette de charcuterie was a fine appetizer in every respect. Red grapes served as a centerpiece for the rounds of garlic sausage, liver pate, hunks of Brie and chevre, cornichons and toasted walnuts. It could ...

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